araptirop

An extended backpacking jaunt around Ethiopia.

My Photo
Name:
Location: Washington, DC, United States

I lead a rich inner life, appreciate a good marshmallow, and have been known to indulge in the occasional Wednesday afternoon tryst underneath the linden tree. I am currently between extended trips to East Africa; this is my story.

31 October 2006

Developmental Problems

It seems that a new blog by an ex-foreign aid worker in Nigeria is causing a bit of a buzz in the African Blogosphere.

While everyone suspects that, human nature being what it is, so-called development projects are sanctimonious shields for less than noble behavior, it's troubling to see this confirmed by an insider.

Because Nigeria is outside my purview, here's a Nigerian blogger's assessment of the article.

naijablog

Labels: ,

 

Pictobrowser

Pretty cool, eh?

Labels:

 

30 October 2006

Post Test

Just testing compatibility for E-mail posts...


 

29 October 2006

mo beta blues

I recently switched to the new version of Blogger which shouldn't effect you (or anyone else for that matter) unless you are trying to comment on a post. It appears that the most current version of Blogger does not support comments, for the time being.

I'll let all of you with your umbilical cords wrapped around this site know when comments are once again enabled.

In the meantime, I totally dare you to try commenting.

Labels:

 

araptirop Newsletter!

Are you on tenterhooks waiting for the next post on araptirop? Do you lie awake at night muttering inanities to a heedless ceiling? Do you want to be kept up-to-date in a more streamlined and disciplined fashion?

Then send me an e-mail (araptirop AT gmail.com) with the subject heading "Newsletter Subscribe" and gratification is yours! You'll receive an update every month for the length of my African travels, replete with all the sordid details judged too raunchy for the general audience such as pictures of naked wildlife!

You can unsubscribe any time you like, and it's free.

Labels:

 

26 October 2006

Then and Now



Personally, I'm still waiting for Iraqi Girls Gone Wild.

 

25 October 2006

Subvert the iPod!

Tired of not being able to download music from your iPod to your computer? Download the latest version of Senuti. (Mac OS 10.3 and higher)

http://www.fadingred.org/senuti/

 

24 October 2006

Multiple Photos in One Entry!















Totally unbelievable. I mean, two photos in one entry!

 

18 October 2006

I Hate Mopeds

While there's probably a 15% chance I will like you if you don't own a moped, there's definitely a 100% chance I won't if you do. As my days in Madison dribble out like the final grains of an hour glass' sand, I've decided to address the two most terrible blemishes on the pride of our fair city--mopeds and their owners.

"Why now?" you ask. It all began today when I was trying to cross the street and was taken aback by a dissonant squeal. It sounded like someone farting through a kazoo. Disgusted, I raised my eyes to the road before me and saw some slack-jawed dunderhead streaking by. Suddenly, I was immersed in a flurry of sense-memory. I relived every moped encounter of the last three years in three milliseconds: pudgy fratboys zipping along with backward baseball caps; carrot-hued girls with mirrored sunglasses; pimpled twerps on their little crotch rockets; conceited athletes buzzing their way through traffic--all of them with a collective IQ no higher than that of the common forest hog.

I am at a loss to explain why anyone would ever own a moped. Madison is blessed with a surfeit of parking structures and a fine metropolitan bus system, not to mention plenty of bike racks. I suppose convenience must be a major factor--you can park nearly anywhere with a moped, it's faster than a bike and most people would never steal so pathetic a sight out from underneath you. Yes, in the world of late modern capitalism convenience is king, and to it we must pay homage.

But aren't there things more important than convenience? Perhaps pride, for instance? I suppose that I am a creature unusually preoccupied with questions of honor. Being dependent on the bus system for three years, I never once ran after a bus. And I've never told a woman I love her. But I have compromised myself. Yes, I may have withheld my consent from a paternity test or two. And perhaps I deny that the child has 'my nose.' And maybe the strange bumps demand that I inform my partners of indiscretions past. But I have never, ever, owned a moped.

Note: Vespas are not mopeds.

 

13 October 2006

Capitol Lights


Capitol Lights
Originally uploaded by araptirop.

A bus stop with the lovely Madison Capitol behind it.

 

Sunset over Chobe River


Sunset over Chobe River
Originally uploaded by bart coessens.

Now that's a nice Africa picture. Unfortunately, it's not mine.

 

Photo FAQ

Here's what you need to know about accessing the photos I'll be uploading during my travels:

  • The photos are all hosted on www.flickr.com. You can go to my master page where you will see all the collections and most recent photos by going to www.flickr.com/photos/araptirop.
  • You can click on "My Photos" under the Section "Links" to do the same as above.
  • You can click one of the little photos on the flickr "badge" (the distracting, moving gizmo in the sidebar) to go to that photo's home page.
  • You can click on individual, medium-sized photos in the posts to one of two things, depending on how I make the entry: (1) you'll go to the photo's home page (see below) or (2) you'll go a large picture of the photo. If (2) is the case, then you'll have to use one of the methods described above to get different sizes of the photo in question.
  • Once you are at a photo's home page, you can click "ALL SIZES" above the photo to get small, medium, and BIG photos.
  • In case you're interested, I use a Nikon D80 with a Nikkor 18-135 mm F/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S Lens.

 

12 October 2006

How to Help

There are a number ways for everyone to help me with this project. Here are a couple of suggestions, but feel free to innovate:

  • Leave comments: This helps me refine my thinking and encourages me to keep posting. It's easy: just click "comments" at the end of the post. No authentication is required; you can post anonymously if you like.
  • Check grammar and spelling: The blog form is, in general, conducive to errors in judgment and syntax, but especially so when traveling in places where internet access is shaky at best. I won't always have the time or soundness of mind for exacting proofreading, so please e-mail me or leave a comment of you notice something awry. (I often confuse homonyms, for instance)
  • E-mail me: E-mail with questions or concerns--> araptirop AT gmail DOT com.
  • Give me money: Make sure I am properly nourished and have enough capital to invest in twisted lechery by supporting my sponsors--chosen by no less an arbiter than Google; they're actually pretty interesting.
  • Give me lots of money: Once you realize that my travelogue is worth more than the $20 you paid to read Theroux and probably the most significant collection of travel writing to appear since the advent of modernity, you'll probably want to sink a healthy chunk of sweet scratch into the venture. Scroll down to the PayPal button and fatten my bank account--it's currently emaciated.
  • Spread the word: Tell your friends, fellow Africa enthusiasts, priest or police. Also, please link to my blog if you have a site or blog of your own. E-mail me (see above) if you think I should link to you. Which leads us nicely to our next topic...
  • Send me links: Is there a great website or book out there that I absolutely must read at the peril of publicly broadcast ignorance? Is there something about somewhere I'm going that I need to know or you want to tell me about? Again, please E-mail me.

That's the provisional list. Any suggestions?

 

Caveat

Over the next few days, I will be writing pages for the "About" section which will hopefully cast some light on things. The basic idea is to blog a couple of pages worth of explanatory information--how to access the photo archives, how to help me with this project while I'm on the road, etc.--and then permanently link to them from the sidebar under "About." Any feedback with what you're having trouble doing or understanding would be welcome.

 

Google Earth Test

Testing, KML should link here.

 

07 October 2006

My Projected East Africa Route



Click Here for Jumbo Map!


Overall:

The red triangles are volcanoes, and their general trajectory across East Africa will be my route. If you guessed that I am following the Rift Valley from Ethiopia to Mozambique, good for you.

Phase I: Ethiopia-Kenya-Uganda

Beginning in Addis Ababa with the vaguely peach color, I intend to do the so-called Ethiopian "Historical Route" (the loop), then take a train ride to Harar and back (not represented), and move down from Addis to Moyale and into Northern Kenya--assuming, of course, I avoid the biblical floods and cholera epidemic . After what will probably be an unsuccessful attempt to approach Lake Turkana from Marsabit, I will make a loop around Mount Kenya and head westward across the Rift Valley to the Lake Victoria port town of Kisimu (with some island-hopping to the Tom Mboya mausoleum), and cross the border into Uganda where I will scope out Mount Elgon.

Phase II: Uganda-Rwanda-DRC-Tanzania

With a possible jaunt to Northeastern Uganda possible, I'll make my way to Kampala and bask on the insouciant Sese Islands. From there it's west to the Rwenzori "Mountains of the Moon." After traipsing about a bit in southwestern Uganda, I'll make my way into Rwanda's National Volcanoes Park. From Gisneyi--where I will no doubt perform more basking, not to mention torrid tropical love-making--I hope to pay a visit to Goma in the Democratic Republic of the Congo with an eye toward scaling the mighty active volcano of Nyiragongo in what could best be called a thinly veiled suicide attempt. Back in Rwanda, I'll move east through Butare, up to Kigali and east to the Tanzanian border.

Phase III: Tanzania-Mozambique

Having shaken off the worst of the cerebral malaria, I'll hopefully wind up in Mwanza. From there, an excursion to Ukerewe Island will be necessary, after which 'I'll take the train to Dodoma via Tabora. From Dodoma, I will head north to the Crater Highlands, where I hope to pay another visit to the Hadza and pen some Peter Matthiessen-type musings to the accompaniment of toxic banana beer. Then east I go to Moshi where I hope to live nestled in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro for a few weeks. Mount Meru may also be climbed at this time. The next stop will be Dar es Salaam. Moving down the coast of Southeastern Tanzania, I'll visit the Kilwa ruins and finally cross into Northern Mozambique where the going gets tough from the get-go. Assuming I avoid wandering into a hippo pod, I'll make it to the Ilha de Mocambique, a derelict Portuguese trading post from the 16th century.

Phase IV: Mozambique-Malawi-Tanzania

The return trip to Addis is represented by the sort-of-magenta color. Incidentally, I once had tennis strings this color and suffered the ridicule of my peers who called them "gay-lesbian colors." It was humiliating.

In all honesty, I figured that I would just trudge back up through Mozambique into Tanzania, but that looked pretty boring in the MS Paint program, so now maybe I'll head west across Lake Malawi to Malawi itself. From the Tanzanian border, I'll take the train back to Dar es Salaam, and move up to Nairobi, Kenya.

Phase V:

From Nairobi, I may hike the Loita hills. I'll head north-by-northwest through the Rift Valley, hiking the crater lakes and escarpments. I'll get my visa stamp in Eldoret from where I'll access Lowar on the western side of Lake Turkana and cross the border into Ethiopia in a test of the Christian God's fury at my hubris. From the Omo Valley, I'll gradually make my way back to Addis and fly back to Wisconsin, the glorious land of cheeses.

 

East Africa Map


Route_EA
Originally uploaded by araptirop.

This

 

04 October 2006

Gear

Wondering what gear you'll need for backpacking through East Africa? Unsure as to what gear is up to snuff? Don't know what to take and what to leave at home?

You've come to the right page.

Here you'll find advice according to your needs. If you are planning on doing some significant mountaineering and trekking through the region, then look at the Master Gear List. If you plan on doing some hiking here and there or just traveling from hostel to hostel, take a look at the Abbreviated Gear List which caters to both more casual trekkers and people who just happen to be carrying a backpack.

Be sure to check back and look at the lodging reviews and place guides as they become available for Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, and Tanzania.

 

YAH


YAH
Originally uploaded by araptirop.

new formating